Whittier Ridge
location: Mt. St. Helens
Starting at Norway Pass trailhead
15 miles total, 3,500' gained
Starting at Coldwater Lake trailhead
22 1/2 miles, 5,000' gained
driving directions - Norway Pass
driving direction - Coldwater Lake
trail map
topo map
forest service site
weather forecast for this area
These are two loop hikes that both cross Whittier Ridge in the Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. One starts from the east (Norway Pass), the other the west (Coldwater Lake).
Both of these routes share the exact same crossing of Whittier Ridge: narrow in places, jagged, steep, with scrambles and route-finding required. Should only be attempted in snow-free, optimal weather conditions. See warning on USFS website. Nevertheless, while allowing a couple hours to make the two mile crossing – with the 5,900’ summit of Mt. Whittier reached as well - the rewards are unequalled, with views of lakes, volcanoes, rock cliffs, and green valleys to highlight a few. Once across the ridge (and maybe confessing to a slight sense of 'because it's there' satisfaction), decompress and comfortably enjoy the wide-open spaces of the Lakes Trail and the much-appreciated lakes as you pass by.
The simple comparison between the two starting points is:
Norway pass trailhead is likely a longer drive, but a shorter trail distance, and less elevation gained.
Coldwater Lake is likely a shorter drive, with a longer trail distance, and more elevation gained.
Norway Pass trailhead:
Head up from the Norway Pass trailhead to Norway Pass (two different spots), with a classic and awesome view right across Spirit Lake and to Mt. St. Helens. Continue ascending on the Boundary Trail, coming to a small saddle for the Whittier trail. After the crossing, continue east on the loop, passing by Panhandle, Obscurity and Grizzly lakes. Ascend Bear Pass and then backtrack to the lot. The trail map recommends a clockwise direction, tackling Whittier Ridge somewhat early in the trip. This way if Whittier Ridge is determined to be not for you, make the smart choice and turn around (maybe make the short side-trip to Mt. Margaret) and have the lesser five or so mile hike back.
Access to Norway Pass is via Road 99, which generally stays gated until early summer. NW Forest Pass required.
Coldwater Lake trailhead:
Park at the boat launch and do about a 1 ½ mile road walk (it is suggested to do this first in the morning, rather that deal with pavement at the end), head up S. Coldwater trail, then Coldwater trail, to the Boundary trail. One of the premiere portions of this trail awaits, with Coldwater Peak nearby, St. Helens Lake down below, and then further on, The Dome and Mt. Margaret (with potential side trips along the way). If you’re taking this route, it is assumed no pondering is required: time to cross Whittier. Embrace this challenge (again?), adding to the mighty experience this loop is providing. After the crossing, head west down to Snow Lake and below, then the trail alongside Coldwater Lake’s gentle terrain to finish up with.
Which one to do? Both are excellent. First time, maybe the Norway Pass route; second time, from Coldwater? Make a figure eight by combining the two? Or make your own route from the trail map.
Only catches: camping is by advance permit only, in select locations. And reliable water in the summer is only at, or near, the lakes shown.
15 miles total, 3,500' gained
Starting at Coldwater Lake trailhead
22 1/2 miles, 5,000' gained
driving directions - Norway Pass
driving direction - Coldwater Lake
trail map
topo map
forest service site
weather forecast for this area
These are two loop hikes that both cross Whittier Ridge in the Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument. One starts from the east (Norway Pass), the other the west (Coldwater Lake).
Both of these routes share the exact same crossing of Whittier Ridge: narrow in places, jagged, steep, with scrambles and route-finding required. Should only be attempted in snow-free, optimal weather conditions. See warning on USFS website. Nevertheless, while allowing a couple hours to make the two mile crossing – with the 5,900’ summit of Mt. Whittier reached as well - the rewards are unequalled, with views of lakes, volcanoes, rock cliffs, and green valleys to highlight a few. Once across the ridge (and maybe confessing to a slight sense of 'because it's there' satisfaction), decompress and comfortably enjoy the wide-open spaces of the Lakes Trail and the much-appreciated lakes as you pass by.
The simple comparison between the two starting points is:
Norway pass trailhead is likely a longer drive, but a shorter trail distance, and less elevation gained.
Coldwater Lake is likely a shorter drive, with a longer trail distance, and more elevation gained.
Norway Pass trailhead:
Head up from the Norway Pass trailhead to Norway Pass (two different spots), with a classic and awesome view right across Spirit Lake and to Mt. St. Helens. Continue ascending on the Boundary Trail, coming to a small saddle for the Whittier trail. After the crossing, continue east on the loop, passing by Panhandle, Obscurity and Grizzly lakes. Ascend Bear Pass and then backtrack to the lot. The trail map recommends a clockwise direction, tackling Whittier Ridge somewhat early in the trip. This way if Whittier Ridge is determined to be not for you, make the smart choice and turn around (maybe make the short side-trip to Mt. Margaret) and have the lesser five or so mile hike back.
Access to Norway Pass is via Road 99, which generally stays gated until early summer. NW Forest Pass required.
Coldwater Lake trailhead:
Park at the boat launch and do about a 1 ½ mile road walk (it is suggested to do this first in the morning, rather that deal with pavement at the end), head up S. Coldwater trail, then Coldwater trail, to the Boundary trail. One of the premiere portions of this trail awaits, with Coldwater Peak nearby, St. Helens Lake down below, and then further on, The Dome and Mt. Margaret (with potential side trips along the way). If you’re taking this route, it is assumed no pondering is required: time to cross Whittier. Embrace this challenge (again?), adding to the mighty experience this loop is providing. After the crossing, head west down to Snow Lake and below, then the trail alongside Coldwater Lake’s gentle terrain to finish up with.
Which one to do? Both are excellent. First time, maybe the Norway Pass route; second time, from Coldwater? Make a figure eight by combining the two? Or make your own route from the trail map.
Only catches: camping is by advance permit only, in select locations. And reliable water in the summer is only at, or near, the lakes shown.
Whittier Ridge
Part of Whittier Ridge, Mt. Margaret, Mt. St. Helens
Looking west from Whittier Ridge
Norway Pass route:
Along Boundary Trail
Shovel Lake, Whittier Ridge on horizon
Panhandle Lake; Mt. Adams in distance
Obscurity Lake
Spirit Lake, Mt. St. Helens from Bear Pass
Coldwater Lake route:
Minnie Peak from S. Coldwater trail
St. Helens Lake
View from side trip to Mt Margaret
Snow Lake
Looking back towards Mt. Margaret and Whittier Ridge from Lakes trail
East end of Coldwater Lake, Mt. Margaret in distance